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Practical Engine Building: Step 9: Long Block Assembly

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Step 9: Long Block Assembly


SR20 Cam timing

00:00 - We're going to begin our long block assembly by fitting our rear crank seal as well as our front oil pump assembly and front cover to the engine.
00:08 Before we could do this though it requires a little bit of preparation work.
00:12 I'm gonna start here with our rear main seal.
00:15 So we've got our aluminium rear main seal housing.
00:18 That's all been cleaned up, all of the old silicon has been removed and we've got a brand new rear main seal that we're going to fit to this.
00:25 Now just a word of warning here, this is one area that I've personally come unstuck on SR20 builds in the past, where I've used an aftermarket rear main seal instead of a genuine Nissan one.
00:38 Now the aftermarket components may be a little bit cheaper but I have found that they tend to be prone to leaking.
00:45 Obviously not something that you want to be replacing regularly.
00:48 So we've got our factory genuine OEM rear main seal and we're going to fit that to our housing.
00:54 Now it's important to note we don't need to apply any lubricant to the outside diameter of our rear main seal in order to fit it to our housing.
01:01 Now there are crankshaft seal fitting and removal kits available however a lot of you out there probably won't have access to one of these kits.
01:11 And that's not necessarily the end of the world.
01:14 What we want to do is find a component, this may be a pulley for example, or a sleeve or something that is just a little bit smaller than the outside diameter of our seal and we're going to use that to hammer it in.
01:28 In this case I've got an aluminium sleeve that we're going to be using for the installation process.
01:33 As we can see, this is just slightly smaller in diameter than our seal.
01:37 It is also important that whatever we're using has a reasonable size surface to contact the seal, otherwise we risk damaging or cutting the seal.
01:46 Now while we're doing this as well, you can see I've got the seal or the rear main housing I should say, located here on a wooden block.
01:53 And this is just going to ensure that during the installation process, neither my workbench nor the housing is damaged.
02:00 Alright so we'll get our hammer now and we'll go about installing that seal.
02:05 It's just a case of slowly tapping the seal down, making sure that it is fitted squarely, we don't want to end up with one side further in than the other, let's go through and do that now.
02:45 Now as we're getting close to having the seal completely installed, it is worth slowing down and taking your time here.
02:51 And just by running your finger around the edge of the seal and the housing, you'll be able to feel what areas of the seal is still proud and require a little bit more attention.
03:01 And what we're trying to do is just get the seal to sit slightly down from the surface as you'll see shortly.
03:25 Alright we've got our seal now installed, it's sitting nice and evenly and it's just below the surface so we're ready to go with our rear main seal.
03:34 We can now move on and we'll have a look at our oil pump housing.
03:38 In our case, because we're using a brand new Nissan SR20 VVL oil pump assembly and front cover, this actually comes with a new crank seal already fitted.
03:48 If on the other hand you're reusing your existing front cover assembly, the process of fitting the front crank seal is exactly the same as what we've just looked at for our rear main.
03:58 Before we fit the oil pump assembly though, we need to disassemble it, and we're going to prime the oil pump with engine assembly lube, and this just ensures that when we go to crank our engine over for the first time to gain oil pressure, that we're going to be able to quickly achieve oil pressure.
04:13 So we're going to take our front cover assembly and again we're going to be using our wooden block here because in order to disassemble the pump, we're going to need to use an impact driver to undo the series of phillips head bolts or screws that attach everything and hold it all together.
04:32 We'll start by removing the M6 bolts that hold this housing in, then we'll move on to the screws.
04:48 With the bolts out of the way, we can get our impact driver and what we want to do is be careful when we are using the impact driver, what we want to do is make sure that each one of these screws that we remove, that the front cover assembly is well supported directly underneath this.
05:02 If we're not doing this, it is possible during this process to crack or break the front cover so let's go through that now and we'll get our pump assembly located so we can start undoing the first of our bolts.
05:38 Once we've got all of those screws loosened off initially with our impact driver, we can remove them the rest of the way.
05:52 With all of the fasteners removed, we can now split the pump apart and get access to the internal gears.
05:59 Now of course if you are reusing an existing oil pump and front cover assembly, this would be the time to completely disassemble all of the components and thoroughly clean them.
06:07 In our case, because we've got a brand new oil pump, that's not necessary.
06:11 What we can see here is there is some lubricant internally inside the pump mechanism from assembly by Nissan.
06:18 What I'm going to do now is take my engine assembly lubricant, and this is just a moly based assembly lubricant, and we're going to generously fill the cavity in between the two pump gears and this is just going to help prime that pump, so let's go ahead and do that now.
06:49 With our oil pump now primed, we're simply going to reverse the process we've gone through and we'll reassemble everything.
06:54 So let's go through that.
07:19 So at this point we've got our front cover and oil pump assembly as well as our rear main seal prepared and ready to go.
07:25 We're going to now fit those onto our engine block.
07:28 Before we can fit the front cover to the engine, we're going to need to replace some of the cam chain mechanism.
07:34 This includes the chain, the drive sprocket, as well as the two cam chain guides.
07:38 Once we've got the front cover on, we're not going to be able to get access to those.
07:44 So at this point I've already fitted a new cam drive sprocket.
07:47 In most instances you'll able to reuse the existing one but if there is excessive wear, then you are best to replace that.
07:54 Then we can take our chain guides and replace those.
07:57 For the chain guides we have got brand new items here from Nissan.
08:01 So the moveable one that is actuated by the cam chain tensioner has a little pivot bolt that the cam chain guide will pivot on and it's a good idea to apply just a small amount of a anti seize lubricant to that, so we'll do that now.
08:32 We can now take our cam chain guide and we can fit this to the front of the engine.
08:55 Now our torque for that particular fastener as well as our other two fasteners for our cam chain guide is 19 newton metres so we're going to use our torque wrench to check that and confirm it is tightened correctly.
09:10 Alright so we've got our first chain guide fitted.
09:13 We're going to now need to fit our cam chain.
09:16 You do need to pay special attention here to your workshop manual because there are some coloured links on the cam chain which let you know which way around the cam chain needs to be fitted.
09:33 We've got our two coloured links which will go to our cam drive sprockets and then we've got a further link down near the bottom of the chain and this will align with the mark on our cam drive sprocket on our crankshaft.
09:48 So what I'm going to do now is just take our cam chain and we don't need to be too fussy with it at the moment, but we'll just locate it on our lower pulley and loosely locate it where it's going to go so that we can get our second cam chain guide in place.
10:06 Now in this case the part that we've got from Nissan is a new part that supercedes the original part that came on this engine and this also necessitates a change in the fastener that we're going to be using.
10:17 Now I'm going to also apply just a small amount of a loctite compound here, just to the threads of the two bolts that are going to hold our second cam chain guide in place.
10:31 With that done, we can now fit our second cam chain guide.
10:53 So at this point, we've got our two cam chain guides and our cam chain fitted.
10:56 When I've just gone and fitted that chain I didn't worry about aligning the match mark with the cam chain on the sprocket but we can do that now before we fit our front cover.
11:28 Alright so everything's ready now for us to fit our front cover assembly.
11:32 It's always a good idea here to just go through both of the mating surfaces on the engine block as well as our front cover with brake clean and a clean rag, just to remove any oil residue that may have ended up on those surfaces while we've been working on the engine.
11:56 With all of our surfaces now cleaned down, we need to apply a bead of sealant to our front cover assembly.
12:02 And in this case we're using a three bond product which is one of the products that is used at an OE level, so this is going to ensure we're gonna get a good seal with no chance of leaking.
12:14 In order to demonstrate this, we're going to do this under our overhead camera here and just to protect the deck surface of the engine, I'm just going to temporarily place a piece of corrugated cardboard on top of our engine.
12:40 Alright we've got our bead of silicon applied there but you will notice that there is another little recess in the front cover there around the oil outlet from the oil pump.
12:50 If you actually look at the Nissan factory manual, you will notice that it specifically says not to apply any silicon to that, and the oil pressure is actually sealed with an o ring.
13:02 And on that note, we will now fit the o ring to our engine block before we assemble and fit our front cover.
13:17 OK we're now ready to fit our front cover into place.
13:20 The only really tricky part here is that we do need to align the oil pump with the drive flange on the crankshaft.
13:51 With the oil pump and front cover now fitted, we can simply go through and fit all of our fasteners.
14:27 Once we've got our front cover tightened down, it's a good idea to remove the excess silicon sealant that will have squeezed out as we've tightened that cover down.
14:36 It's a good idea to do this while it is still wet.
14:48 While we're still working on the front end of the engine, we're going to now also fit our water pump assembly.
14:55 And we've replaced this just with a brand new S13 water pump assembly.
14:59 This seals exactly the same way, using our three bond silicon sealant.
15:39 Alright with everything tightened up on the front of the engine, we're now going to fit our rear main seal.
15:44 Now this is a little bit harder for our camera to capture but the process really is exactly what we've looked at for our front cover.
15:51 We're going to clean down the mating surfaces using brake clean and then we're going to apply a thin bead of our three bond silicon sealant and then we're going to fit and tighten the main seal down.
16:02 It is a little bit tricky when you've got the engine on an engine stand because often this can inhibit your access around the rear flange of the crankshaft.
16:10 So we wanna be very careful when we are fitting this just to make sure we don't end up smearing our sealant off on the end of the crankshaft and then transferring that onto the sealing surface of the crank seal.
16:21 Let's go ahead and do that now.
17:02 Alright we've got our front cover and our rear main seal fitted.
17:06 We can now start fitting the cylinder head to the engine.
17:10 Now that we've got our front cover assembly and our rear main crank seal fitted and sealed up, we can continue with the assembly of the rest of our long block.
17:18 Now in this case instead of the factory adapter plate, we are using a product from Taarks which allows for a remote oil cooler assembly, a remote oil filter assembly, and this simply seals to the engine block with a pair of o rings, making our job really nice and easy.
17:35 So we'll go ahead and we'll install that now.
18:02 As well as allow us to easily fit an oil cooler and a remote oil filter assembly the Taarks oil filter block also includes a pressure source for an oil pressure sensor, this makes it really easy to fit an oil pressure sensor to the engine.
18:17 And it also importantly includes a take off for the oil feed to the VVL solenoid on our cylinder head.
18:24 This is an essential part of the VE cylinder head conversion.
18:27 So with our oil block fitted now to the engine, we're going to rotate the engine block back up and we're going to begin fitting our cylinder head.
18:37 Before we can fit the cylinder head, there are a few steps we need to take to prepare the engine block.
18:43 The first of these is to refit the dowels that locate the cylinder head onto the engine block.
18:48 These have been removed for the purposes of machining the block surface.
18:52 Fitting these is relatively easy.
18:54 All we need to do is take the dowel and we need to locate it in the recess in the block and then just using a gentle tap from a hammer, we can knock that down into place.
19:06 We wanna be careful when we're doing this to make sure that it is located accurately, obviously we don't want to end up damaging the block surface while we're doing so.
19:15 And you can also see that there is a slot in these dowels, this just allows them to crush up as we tap them down into place.
19:21 Now when we're doing this as well, we want to just be careful to make sure that we are tapping them down evenly, and that once we've finished, they are nice and square in the block, I'll go ahead and do that now.
20:08 Another step that we're going to need to take here is to refit the rear breather.
20:13 It's a steel piece that's pressed into the block.
20:16 Now in most instances this will actually remain in the block during the machining process.
20:22 In our case it has been removed so we're going to need to relocate that.
20:25 Now this is important because if you refit the cylinder head without doing this, you're going to find it's all but impossible to refit it.
20:33 So we've got the breather here and it is essentially a press fit.
20:38 There's not a lot of chance of leakage here and what we're going to do is use just a light smear of Loctite retaining compound and this helps to seal it but also make sure that it's going to stay put once it's fitted.
21:12 Now what I'm going to do is get this located where I want it to be and we're just going to gently tap that into place.
21:18 And what I'm going to be using to do this is just a socket that I've selected that fits nicely on the outside diameter of the fitting.
21:33 I'm just going to start by locating it approximately where I want it to be.
21:36 Making sure that I've got it nice and square and it actually presses down a reasonable way just with light pressure.
21:43 Once we've got it to that located we're going to take our socket and our hammer and we'll just gently tap that into place.
21:55 Now before we tap this the whole way down, we also just want to check our alignment, make sure that it is pointing in the correct direction.
22:01 Once we're happy, we can tap it in the rest of the way.
22:14 At this point I would typically install the head studs using these as the guide to lower our head gasket into place.
22:21 However with the design of the SR20 DET engine, we can't actually do that as the head gasket will foul on the chain guides.
22:28 Now before we do this I'm going to start by giving the deck surface of the block a final clean down using a clean rag and brake clean.
22:47 Once the deck surface of our block is completely clean, I'm going to apply a small amount of our three bond sealant to the parting surfaces between the engine block and the front cover, and this will just ensure we don't have any oil leaks in those locations once our head's bolted in place.
23:21 Alright another little trick that I'm going to perform here is to fit a cable tie to our cam chain.
23:28 And we don't want that cam chain to fall down and come loose, So it's important to make sure that this stays tight while we're installing both the head gasket and the cylinder head.
23:35 So in order to help with this I'm just going to take a cable tie, I'll fit that to the end of the cam chain.
23:40 This will just be used to help guide that cam chain through the opening in our cylinder head in a few moments.
23:48 Alright so at this point we're ready to drop our head gasket into place.
23:51 So we'll take our Tomei multi layer steel head gasket.
23:54 Obviously you want to make sure that the surfaces of the head gasket are also clean.
23:59 In the SR20 it's basically impossible to fit this gasket around the wrong way.
24:03 So what we'll do is we'll just take our cam chain and we'll feed that through our head gasket and then we're just going to gently lower our head gasket into place.
24:13 We want to make sure that it locates correctly on our dowels.
24:19 On the block.
24:21 Normally once I've got the head gasket installed I'll go through and install the head studs, using these to guide the cylinder head into location.
24:28 In this case, due to the location of the chain guides, I'm going to install the cylinder head first.
24:34 Before we do this I'm going to take the head off the stand that it's currently on and just give the underside surface of that a final clean before we locate it in place.
24:49 Once we're ready to fit the cylinder head, this is easiest done with a helper.
24:53 This allows you to focus solely on getting the cylinder head into location and the helper can make sure that the chain stays tight and also stays out of the way.
25:04 So we'll get Ryan to come in here and Ryan's going to just support our cam chain and we'll offer up the cylinder head.
25:23 With our head located correctly and dropped down onto the dowels, we're now going to go through and install our head studs.
25:30 Now when we do this, we're going to clean down those studs and then apply a small amount of clean engine oil to the ends of them before winding them into the block.
26:34 Once all of the head studs have been wound into place we can now locate our washers and then of course our nuts.
26:41 Now when we're fitting the washers and nuts we're going to apply a small amount of ARP lubricant to both sides of the washer as well as the underside of the nut and a little bit into the threads.
26:51 So we'll go through and fit all of those now.
26:53 All we're looking to do at this stage is do these up just finger tight.
27:05 When it comes to dropping these washers into place, it can be useful to guide these down using a small jewellers screwdriver, and this allows us to guide them down onto the stud and get them into location.
28:24 Now that we've got all of our ARP hardware fitted and everything's finger tight, we can begin torquing fasteners down.
28:31 And here we're going to be using Mazworx's recommended torque settings, these are two stages, first to 45 foot pound, then to 65 foot pound, and we're going to be using the Nissan workshop manual's torque order.
28:44 So we're going to be staring in the middle and we're working our way out diagonally.
28:47 So let's go through that now.
29:13 With our first stage complete there, just taken our torque setting up to 65 foot pound.
29:19 I'm gonna repeat that same process for our second stage and final stage of torque.
29:35 Alright we've got our fasteners all torqued to 65 foot pound.
29:38 As a final sanity check I just like to go through from one end of the cylinder head to the other, just checking each of the fasteners and making sure that I haven't overlooked or missed any.
29:58 With our head studs now correctly torqued down, we've still got a series of M6 bolts that are external to the cylinder head that also need to be tightened down, I'm gonna go through and do that now.
30:34 Once the installation of the head's complete, we're going to move on and we'll start installing our cams.
30:39 Obviously all of the cams and the journals in the cylinder head need to be cleaned before we get started here.
30:45 And once we've got everything clean, we're going to apply a coat of moly based assembly lubricant to the journals and the head as well as the rockers.
30:54 This will provide some protection during initial start up.
30:57 So let's do that now.
31:14 With our lubricant applied to the head, we can now drop our camshafts into place.
31:18 Now what we want to do here is align the camshaft so that the dowel for our exhaust cam is pointing directly straight up or at the 12 o'clock position.
31:29 The dowel for our intake cam needs to be at about the 10 o'clock position.
31:33 All of this information simply comes from our workshop manual as well.
31:38 So let's get our cams into location.
31:52 And the reason the orientation of our cams is important here is that obviously at the moment we have number one and number four cylinders at top dead centre.
32:01 So if we install our cams in the wrong position, we can potentially end up with the belts contacting the pistons and becoming bent so we want to make sure we avoid that.
32:12 With our cams installed, we're now going to apply some more of our moly based assembly lubricant to the journal surfaces on the top of the cam.
32:26 Now we can begin installing our cam caps.
32:29 It's important to make sure that you fit these cam caps in the correct location.
32:32 They are numbered and there's also an arrow that marks forward.
32:37 So this marks towards the front of the cylinder head.
32:40 It's really important that you take note of these numbers and marks, just to ensure that they aren't going to be fitted to the wrong location.
32:47 Let's go ahead and fit those now.
33:23 When it comes to installing the cam cap for the rear of our exhaust cam, we also want to apply a small amount of sealant to the rear section of this cap to ensure we don't have any oil leaks.
33:58 Now the rear cap on the P11 cylinder head normally is where the distributor drive locates on the back of the exhaust cam.
34:04 We're not going to be using this, we're running our crank trigger ignition system so this is a good time now to install a blanking kit that we've got here from Mazworx.
34:13 This can be installed later, there's no problem there, but this is an ideal time to get that into position.
34:41 Alright now we're in a position where we can start tightening down our cam caps.
34:45 Now again there's information in the correct order and torque to tighten these fasteners down in the workshop manual, we're gonna follow that order through.
34:54 It is important to follow the correct order, if you don't do that, you do risk damaging or potentially even snapping one of the camshafts.
35:00 So let's go through and tighten these down.
36:20 With our cam installation complete, we're now going to go through and fit our vernier adjustable cam gears to the front of our cams.
36:25 And this also entails getting our cam chain fitted onto those cam gears, essentially doing our cam timing.
36:32 This is something we do need to pay a little bit of attention to and make sure that we've got everything right here.
36:37 What we're looking for here is to match the coloured links on our cam chain with the match marks that we'll find on our cam gear.
36:47 So we've got a little dot on our cam gear and this is what we're going to be looking for.
36:52 What we'll do is we'll start by taking the cable tie we've got on our cam chain and we can cut that off, as we're not going to need that anymore.
37:01 We'll start by installing our cam gear on our exhaust side.
37:06 So the process here is that we're going to get our cam chain sorted out and aligned with that mark.
37:12 This does get a little bit fussy as once we've got our cam gear aligned and fitted to our cam chain on the mark, we're going to potentially need to move our cam slightly in order to get the dowel to line up and our cam gear to slide nicely onto the cam, so let's go through that process now.
38:12 Alright we've got our first cam gear fitted there.
38:14 And what I've done, once I've got the cam gear on, I've just turned the cam back a little bit, just to make sure that I've got a good amount of tension on the side of the chain that runs down to the cam sprocket on the crank pulley.
38:27 Now we're going to go through and repeat the same process on our inlet cam.
38:47 Alright we've got our two cam gears fitted now, it's a good idea at this point to do once last sanity check, make sure that our match marks do align with our coloured links.
38:58 Now we'd also normally be able to check that our bottom pulley is still on our TDC mark, in this case because we have got the later model front cover, and the front pulley that we've got is for the earlier model, these match marks won't align anyway.
39:14 However I know that we have got our crankshaft still on top dead centre.
39:18 What we're gonna do now is go through and we're going to fit our cam pulley bolts.
39:23 On the exhaust cam in this instance, we are running a Mazworx pickup or trigger so this involves fitting an aluminium wheel to the front of the vernier adjustable pulley so we're gonna go through that.
39:36 We're going to apply a small amount of blue Loctite to each of the cam pulley bolts and then we'll be torquing those to 130 newton metres, as per the factory manual.
39:46 So let's go through that now.
40:29 One of the problems a lot of home enthusiasts are going to face when tightening up those cam pulley bolts is finding a tool that's going to be able to adequately get down onto the hex on the cam to prevent it from turning.
40:41 Now in this case we have simply made our own special service tool.
40:45 We've just taken a ring spanner and we've just narrowed it down so that it can fit down onto that hex and we can hold that cam tight.
40:54 So let's go through now and we'll torque our bolts up.
41:56 With our cam pulleys torqued correctly, our next step is to fit our cam chain tensioner.
42:02 Now in stock form these Nissan SR20 engines use a hydraulic cam chain tensioner, however we've opted to fit a mechanical tensioner because this is a race engine.
42:13 The unit that we're fitting comes from Mazworx and this requires one more task because we do need to adjust the tension and make sure that that's correct.
42:21 So I'm going to start by fitting a new gasket and then we will fit our Mazworx mechanical tensioner to the block and tighten that in, then we can go through the process of setting our tension.
42:58 Regardless what type of tensioner you're using, it is important to make sure that the slot in the end of the tensioner does correctly locate with the adjustable cam chain guide.
43:07 Once we've got that installed we can tighten up the bolts and we'll go through and we'll adjust our tension.
43:52 Once we've specified the correct amount of tension in our chain, which is approximately six millimetres of slack in the centre between the two cam pulleys, we can then lock up our mechanical tensioner.
44:02 In this case I'm just going to apply a small drop of Loctite just so there's no chance of it working its way loose.
44:25 The next step is to fit our new Mazworx ATI crank pulley.
44:29 At this point because it is quite difficult to stop the engine from rotating so that we can correctly tighten our crank pulley, I'm actually only going to temporarily fit this.
44:40 It's really important if you are going to do this, to make sure that you don't forget to come back and correctly torque down that pulley bolt, otherwise you're going to end up with a failure on your hands at a later point.
44:52 Let's go ahead and do that now.
45:18 Once we've got our crank pulley fitted, we can perform one more sanity check on our cam timing and that's to perform a full 720 degree rotation of our crankshaft, bringing it back so that our TDC marker lines up.
45:31 Then we can also check and make sure that our cams are in the correct position.
45:35 It's important to mention though that once you've turned the engine through 720 degrees, you're no longer going to have the benefit of those coloured links on the cam chain to show you where everything should be.
45:46 That's OK though, we've attached a file to this particular video that you can open and look at.
45:53 And this will give you a simple way of counting the number of teeth from each side of the cylinder head to where the match mark on your cam pulley should be.
46:02 Provided that all lines up correctly, you know that your cam timing is correct, then we can have the confidence to move on.
46:08 Now there are a couple more considerations we're going to cover off here.
46:12 First of all at this point you'll have probably noted that our cam chain has been installed dry.
46:18 And while the cam chain is oiled by the engine oil supply while its operating, we don't really want to be starting the engine up with a completely dry cam chain.
46:28 So what I'm going to do here is use our oiling can and apply a small amount of oil to our cam chain as we turn the engine through a full engine cycle.
46:38 The other aspect we'll touch on here is our cam timing.
46:41 Obviously at this point we have installed some vernier adjustable cam gears.
46:45 We've left these at the moment on their zero marks.
46:49 We will be covering off the dialling in or degreeing of these cams in a worked example in our cam degreeing course if you want to see this in a little bit more detail.
46:58 So let's go through now and we'll oil our cam chain.
47:17 Since we've now finished with everything in our cylinder head and under the rocker cover, we can fit the rocker cover and seal the top half of the engine up.
47:25 We've got our P11 Primera rocker cover here, we've made sure it's all thoroughly cleaned out, and we're going to start by installing some new gaskets into the cover to make sure everything's going to seal perfectly.
47:50 Before we install the rocker cover we're going to apply a small amount of our liquid silicon sealant to the half moon areas of our cylinder head just to ensure everything's going to seal nicely.
48:01 We'll also put a small amount of silicon in the corner of our rear cam cap on the exhaust side.
48:21 Alright we're now ready to fit our rocker cover and tighten it down.
49:32 Before we turn the engine over and fit the sump there are a couple of other components that we're going to fit here to our cylinder head.
49:38 In particular here on the back of the cylinder head we are fitting a Mazworx block which replaces the factory VVL solenoid block.
49:47 In particular it replaces the double solenoid block from the P11 head with one that uses a single solenoid to actuate both cams.
49:54 And in a rear wheel drive application that's important because it gives us a little bit of additional clearance to the firewall.
50:00 This block also seals with o rings so there's no need for any silicon to seal this to the cylinder head.
50:07 What we're going to do is start by cleaning down the cylinder head surface, just making sure that there is no debris or oil on that surface.
50:23 With the cylinder head clean, we can go ahead and fit the component.
50:58 The next part we're going to fit is a new adaptor for our upper radiator hose, and this will convert from a push on hose through to an AN fitting.
51:07 In order to fit this we're just going to rotate the engine through 90 degrees, so we can follow through on our overhead shot.
51:23 As usual we'll make sure that both mating faces are completely clean and then we're going to be using some of our three bond sealant in order to seal this to the cylinder head.
52:09 At this point we're ready to begin assembling the sump components of our engine.
52:12 And really the process here is relatively self explanatory.
52:15 We're going to start by fitting the small windage tray that bolts onto the aluminium girdle and following this we're going to fit our oil pickup.
52:24 In the case of this particular engine, because we are using the later model oil pump and front cover assembly, this does actually require a modified pickup.
52:33 The factory SR20 DET pickup won't bolt to the P11 Primera oil pump.
52:39 So let's go through and we'll assemble those components now.
53:41 With our oil pickup and windage tray now fitted, we can move on and fit the cast section of the sump.
53:46 Now this is gonna require us to carefully clean both mating surfaces, we're then going to apply a bead of our three bond silicon sealant, and then we're going to lower the sump into place and bolt it down.
54:38 Once we've got the sump initially fitted up, you'll notice that it can be a little bit hard to pull it down onto the two dowels at the back of the engine block.
54:46 So to help with this, we can either use the bolts to pull it down, or alternatively you can use a plastic or rubber mallet to help bring it down onto the sump rails.
56:17 Once we've got he cast section of the sump bolted down, we're gonna move on and we will fit our second windage plate.
56:51 The last step here is to fit our Moroso winged sump.
56:54 Now unlike the factory lower sump section, this actually requires us to fit some studs into the cast section of our sump so that we can then bolt the Moroso sump to that.
57:04 In this case I'm going to be using a small amount of thread locker to fix these studs in place, so we'll go through and fit these now.
57:56 Now that we've got these studs fitted to our sump, we can go ahead and apply our sealant to the sump rails on our Moroso sump.
58:02 Now we do need to pay a little bit of attention here because this is a winged sump.
58:06 Four of the bolts are accessed internally.
58:09 And when we are sealing this down, we do need to be aware of which side of the bolt holes we're going to apply our silicon.
58:16 Conventionally what we're going to do is apply our silicon on the inside of all of the bolt holes, however for these four bolt holes with the internal access, we actually need to apply our silicon bead on the outside of the bolt holes as you'll see.
58:46 With our silicon now applied to our sump, we can fit the sump and we're going to tighten down the nuts to hold it in place.
59:59 At this point we've got the external nuts located and everything's been tightened down, however we've still got the four internal nuts to fit.
01:00:07 Now if we try and fit these with the engine upside down like this, we're just going to end up with four nuts inside our sump, obviously not ideal.
01:00:15 What I'm going to do is rotate the engine through 90 degrees so I can feed those through on an extension horizontally, this way they're not going to fall off.
01:00:48 With our internal nuts now fitted to the sump, we have one last job, and that is to replace the sealing bungs in the underside of the sump.
01:00:55 We'll go through and do that now.
01:01:14 So at this point we've completed the assembly of our engine long block.
01:01:17 From here we would move on and refit the external components such as manifolds et cetera, and then we can fit the engine into the vehicle.