Practical Standalone Tuning: Step 1: ECU Configuration and Testing

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Step 1: ECU Configuration and Testing

48.21

00:00	The first step of our 10 step process of course is our ECU configuration.
00:04	And this is something that is, so often overlooked.
00:07	Going through this is relatively straightforward, it's literally a tick box exercise.
00:12	But what it's going to do is make sure that all of our inputs to the ECU are set up correctly, assigned to the correct pins and that the correct calibration for the sensors has been selected.
00:23	In other words, to say that everything is giving us sensible, accurate readings.
00:27	So, easy to overlook this and find out that perhaps the calibration for your map sensor has been incorrectly selected, or worse still, you've got it on an incorrect pin.
00:38	Just as importantly though is configuring our outputs for any of our auxiliary outputs, radiator fans, fuel pumps, but also our injectors and our ignition coils.
00:49	This is critical to again make sure that everything's configured and is going to work as expected.
00:54	And when it comes to aspects such as our injectors and our ignition coils, particularly with a direct spark, which this 4G63 is not, it's really important to thoroughly make sure that when you are for example triggering a coil for cylinder number two, that it is in fact cylinder number two that is functioning.
01:15	Very easy to get this wiring around the wrong way.
01:17	With our ignition coils, the engine's simply not going to run properly, so you're going to have to fix it.
01:23	But more subtly if you're running sequential injection and you've got one of your injectors around the wrong way, so the ECU thinks it's on a different cylinder, this will have a subtle impact on your tuning and can be really frustrating to fault find later on.
01:37	So, really important to just go through this thoroughly, take the time and make sure that everything is actually functioning as expected.
01:44	Now, with this process we're also going to cover off, as I've already mentioned, the modelled fuel equation in the LINK ECU or volumetric efficiency as it's more often called and we'll see how that works.
01:55	If you are more interested in running the injection time or in LINK speak, the traditional fuel model, we do have other worked examples covering that and essentially the process here is not any different to our other worked examples.
02:08	So, if that's your preference, you can check out those worked examples to see what is different between what we're going to do.
02:15	So, probably worth just taking a moment out here and talking about why we would choose a VE fuel model over injection time.
02:22	And while VE fuel models have essentially over the last five or eight years become the norm and a bit of a buzzword with aftermarket ECU manufacturers, really in my opinion you can get great tuning results using either method.
02:37	The advantage with the VE model does really come to its own, particularly if you are going to run flex fuel.
02:43	There are some other subtle advantages though, if you are using correctly characterised injectors and at a later point you step up to a larger injector size, theoretically we should be able to just drop in our new injectors, change the characterisation data and the engine should run exactly as it did previously.
03:02	Now, that's not always going to be the case and I would always recommend at least at a minimum checking out the tune anyway, so for me that becomes a bit of a moot point.
03:11	The advantage with LYNX traditional or injection time base is that it isn't directly an injector opening time or pulse width that you're entering into the fuel map, like some other injection time based ECUs.
03:24	It's a bit of a hybrid where there is a master injector pulse width number and that kind of scales the entire table and then really realistically the fuel table actually acts a little bit more like a VE table, only that it's not scaled to true VE.
03:42	Anyway we're not covering traditional, so I'll leave that parked there.
03:46	Let's jump into the software now and just get a bit of a quick tour and an understanding of how it all works and how we can manipulate what we're displaying and how we get through the different menu configurations.
03:58	So, at the moment we're looking at our main fuel table up here and we can also see we've got a bunch of other data being displayed down here.
04:06	Now, there's a lot of flexibility here and it really, there's no one size fits all rule, this is purely up to the individual as to what you wanna see while you're tuning.
04:15	Very easy to change though, so for example here we've got our closed loop fuel correction percent if we are running closed loop.
04:22	And what we want to do here is start by clicking the little X and that will now allow us to manipulate where this is displayed.
04:29	So, we can slide that down here, we can make it larger or smaller.
04:33	And once we're happy with where that's located, we can just lock that back in place.
04:38	The same goes for any of the other displays that we've got here.
04:43	Now, if we want to add something new, if we go to an area where we don't have anything at the moment and we click the right mouse button, we can go to new view, and then you can select what you actually want to display.
04:53	Maybe you want a digital gauge here, and now you can go through all of the parameters here that are available and you can select what you want to display.
05:01	We'll leave that though because we don't need any more.
05:05	Now, looking at how I've got this set up as well, we've got our air fuel ratio lambda target, we're going to look at that in a little bit more detail as we get through this quick example.
05:14	And right below this we have lambda one which is our wideband or measured air fuel ratio, lambda in this case, coming into the ECU.
05:23	In this case we're actually interfacing with an existing Haltech WB1 wideband controller using an LSU 4.9 lambda sensor.
05:32	Not an absolute essential to have onboard lambda, but as time's gone on it's become much more normalised and it does give you a couple of advantages.
05:42	First of all, it makes your tuning process a little bit quicker and easier because as you can see here we've got both of the pieces of data that are relevant to our fuel tuning in exactly the same place, we've got our target and our measured being displayed one above the other.
05:56	So, we're only looking at one place rather than looking at our target fuel lambda number on our PC and then looking at our dyno to get the displayed lambda from there.
06:05	So, much much easier in that respect for the tuning process.
06:09	Just as importantly, and this again is another area of personal preference, if you want to run closed loop lambda control once the engine is off the dyno out in the real world, then of course that's going to be an essential.
06:20	Now, I do find that this is a real benefit to tidy up any small inaccuracies that you're likely to see in your fueling due to day to day variations in atmospheric conditions, ageing of parts in the car over time, it just allows you to get more accurate control.
06:38	And we do have a lot of control into how much control the ECU has allowed.
06:43	So, a factory ECU, particularly when we're looking at short term and long term fuel trims combined, they may be up to plus or minus 25% each.
06:51	With a properly tuned engine, I don't see any reason to have anywhere near that control.
06:57	Typically, we might allow a little bit more control range around the idle area where we're more inclined to be affected by heat soak, maybe there, plus or minus 10% to 15%.
07:07	The rest of the map, between plus or minus 5% and plus or minus 10% should be more than sufficient if you are a little bit nervous about using closed loop control when you are under high load, then you can configure RPM and load limits as to when the ECU will just configure itself back into open loop.
07:24	So, a lot of control there, but again of course personal preference.
07:27	Looking at our fuel table itself, at the moment we've got our colour gradient turned on and we can enable or disable that using the H key.
07:35	And always remember if you're not sure of any of the hotkeys, if you right click, you'll get a full list of these and our colour gradient visible is displayed down here.
07:46	Another personal preference, you're probably gonna hear me say that a lot during this worked example.
07:51	The advantage of the colour gradient however is that if we just turn it off for a moment, we've got a big grid of numbers like this, it's very easy to accidentally transpose a number.
08:02	Let's look at this particular cell here and we've got a value of 61.7%.
08:07	Let's say we're just quickly filling out a row of numbers here and we accidentally manage to miss the 61 and instead we just get the value 6.
08:17	Now, because I've just changed this, it is highlighted blue, so clearly that sticks out.
08:21	But if we press the F4 key, that will store that change and if I now no longer highlight it, it doesn't stick out, it's very hard to see in that sea of numbers.
08:31	However, if we turn the colour gradient back on by pressing H, now we can see that this is very obvious that we've got an outlier here, it brings our attention to it and we can make the appropriate change.
08:43	In terms of making an appropriate change here, we also have the advantage of using Control Z to undo the last change.
08:50	I find that a really powerful change or powerful feature, a lot of ECUs don't have this and if you find you've made a big mistake to a block of numbers, it can be quite time consuming to come back from.
09:01	Another aspect with our fuel table and actually for that matter any of our tables is if we come up to the top here, we can see that we can display these graphically, nothing particularly unusual about this, but it does just give us the ability to manipulate the table and just get a sense of the shape of the table.
09:21	Now, a lot is made about smooth tables in tuning forums and I'll be the first to say that a smooth table does not necessarily indicate an exceptionally good tune.
09:32	It's important that we are giving the engine what it wants in terms of both fuelling and ignition timing and that may not always be perfectly smooth.
09:42	Particularly if you're tuning a naturally aspirated engine with a really aggressive cam, what you will quite often find is that the VE table looks a little bit like Mount Everest, particularly at low RPM and once we sort of get out of the lower RPM region, once the cam starts to become efficient, at that point you should start to see the table become a little bit smoother.
10:04	So, again much more important to have the engine running properly, tracking your lambda target correctly and with the correct ignition timing to achieve optimal torque rather than a beautifully smooth table that you can post on a forum and be happy about.
10:19	Alright, so let's just head back to the numerical view of our fuel table.
10:23	Probably one of the two common things we're going to be doing is tuning our fuel and our ignition and we can switch between our fuel and our ignition tables by using the I key, obviously, for ignition, and F key will take us back to fuel.
10:36	Now, let's have a look at some of the ECU settings and we can bring these up by pressing the escape key and that'll bring up our little pop up box on the left hand side.
10:47	Now, you can choose to pin this permanently if you don't mind losing the screen real estate or escape again, we'll close that back down.
10:56	I tend to use both options, it just depends on what I'm actually doing at the time.
11:02	There's a couple of ways of navigating this menu, as we can see we do have a bit of a tree structure here and we can open and close this as we see fit depending on what we're working on at the time.
11:15	Another way we can deal with this is with the little search box we can see here.
11:19	So, if you're not quite sure where to find a particular parameter, you can just start typing that, so let's say we want to look at boost.
11:28	So, if we enter the search term boost here, what it's going to do is filter everything by that term boost, you can see that's exactly what it's done.
11:36	So, we've got our boost control output, we've got our wastegate trim table, our gear wastegate table and our IAT wastegate trim table and we can click on any of those parameters that we want to make adjustments to.
11:50	Another feature with the LYNX software is that we can see, now that we've moved to our boost setup screen, we've got this little green back arrow and if we click on that, that will take us back to where we previously were which of course was our fuel table.
12:05	Alright, that's enough for our basic rundown on the software, of course as we go through the worked example you're going to get to see more and more of how I'm manipulating the software.
12:14	It's really important to say that as you become familiar with any tuning software, you're going to build up your own workflow on how you work with it and it may not quite look like mine and that's absolutely fine.
12:25	Let's get stuck in though and start our configuration here.
12:28	So, what we'll do is press the escape key and we'll bring out our little pop up menu and what we're going to do is just start at the top and it's actually worth mentioning here that basically, there is a workflow built into this menu structure.
12:43	If we sort of work our way from top to bottom, that's going to be a sensible approach to setting up our ECU.
12:49	So, let's click on configuration and we'll have a look at where we're going to get started.
12:53	Now, important to mention here that because we are using this as a wiring ECU, we can't just load up the Mitsubishi Evo 9 base file, that is suited for the plug and play G4X variant.
13:08	There are some similarities, you could of course copy and paste the fuel and ignition tables out of that, that's probably going to get you a bit of a head start, but we're going to go through the whole process here.
13:18	Starting at the very top we've got the number of cylinders, pretty obvious and straightforward as is our engine type, four stroke.
13:26	If we double click on this, we do have the option of rotary or two stroke.
13:30	Obviously, in our case, four stroke is what we're going with here.
13:32	We've also got our connection speed and some of the previous Link ECUs have had connectivity issues with some laptops and in this case you would start with the fast setting and you can try dropping this to slow.
13:46	There have been some improvements with the G5 in their communications, in my own testing I've found it faultless.
13:52	I've also introduced Ethernet communications as an option as well.
13:57	We'll close that down.
13:58	Custom TDC, unnecessary unless you are working with an odd fire engine, maybe something like a Dodge Viper.
14:07	In our case, even TDCs, no problem there.
14:10	We can add a description of the vehicle if required and we can also add a VIN number, I'm not going to bother with that.
14:18	And we also, if we come down, have our firing order table.
14:23	So, really important just to make sure that this firing order is set correctly and for almost all four cylinder engines that will be 1342.
14:31	So, we're correct there.
14:32	So, now we've worked through the first section of our configuration.
14:36	We can press escape here and we can close down our configuration and as I mentioned, we'll just work through the standard workflow and we'll move onto our fuel.
14:44	And we want to start with our fuel setup and we'll click on fuel main here.
14:48	OK, so let's have a look at the options and there's a few to go through here.
14:52	First of all, is our injection mode.
14:55	And in almost all instances we're going to want this to be sequential.
14:59	This of course does require a trigger setup that will support sequential fuel injection.
15:04	In other words, the ECU needs an engine position sensor, so it knows when number one cylinder is on the firing stroke.
15:12	Of course, Mitsubishi Evo 9, the stock trigger inputs which we're going to get on later in the worked example, give us all this information, so sequential.
15:20	And if we want direct spark ignition is absolutely no problem.
15:24	Next we move down to our fuel equation mode which I've kind of covered a couple of times now.
15:30	Modelled or volumetric efficiency, if we open this here, we can see our options are traditional or I would prefer to call injection time based, modelled, VE and then we also have a multi fuel modelled option, so nothing to change here.
15:44	Next our equation load source which is maybe not super intuitive here.
15:48	And in this case load equals MAP is going to be our normal go to here.
15:54	If we double click on this we can see we can have load equals BAP or barometric air pressure, we've got a BAP slash MAP crossover and load is off.
16:02	So, what this does is essentially runs a background fuel equation based on the manifold absolute pressure sensor and this equation is very simply just if we double manifold pressure we need to double fuel delivery in order to maintain a consistent air fuel ratio.
16:17	If you are ever confused about any parameter and maybe don't quite understand what you're supposed to be choosing, if we press F1, we always have a help file available that is specific to what you've got highlighted at the time and this will give you a more thorough rundown on what you are doing or what the parameter that you are choosing here.
16:40	So, with that done, let's close this down and we can move on to our engine capacity.
16:45	So, this is a parameter that is really important for a volumetric efficiency based fuel model, it needs to be accurate, 1997 cc's, just under 2 litres, stock 4G63 engine size.
16:57	This should be pretty straightforward, however it is quite common for modified vehicles to have oversized pistons.
17:04	While a 20 thou or half mil oversize is probably not going to dramatically impact the tuning if you don't take that into account, we always want to be as accurate as possible, the bigger issue is where someone has fitted a stroker kit and maybe now your 2 litre engine is actually out at 2.3 or 2.4 litres.
17:24	In our case we know it's not, so we can leave that.
17:27	Lambda target overlay table, we're going to leave that switched off.
17:32	And our fuel system type here, important to make sure that this is correct, this is in our case map reference.
17:38	So, what this means is that the fuel pressure will be rising and dropping with manifold absolute pressure.
17:45	The key element here is it means that the differential pressure across the injector should always be consistent and that should always be our base fuel pressure which if we come down here is 300 kPa, 3 bar or 43.5 psi.
18:00	So, this is important if we come back up to our map reference because if we don't have this set correctly, the ECU's calculation for what that differential fuel pressure is, is going to be wrong and essentially all bets are off.
18:12	It's going to make our tuning very difficult.
18:14	Double click on this, we can have none, so basically no fuel pressure correction.
18:20	We've got returnless which is more common in a modern engine where we have no return line and the regulator is fitted in the tank, in other words we've got a fixed fuel pressure.
18:31	And then if you have fitted a fuel pressure sensor, this allows the ECU to actually measure in real time the differential fuel pressure or calculate the differential fuel pressure and that gives the ECU the ability to account automatically in the background for aspects such as maybe your fuel pump starting to fall over a little bit at high RPM and high load where your fuel pressure is starting to fall away and if you didn't have a fuel pressure sensor available, you would have no idea that's happening, so allow the ECU just to account for that.
19:00	So, in our case we don't have a pressure sensor, we're just going to stay with map referenced.
19:04	Let's move down here and we'll start with our fuel parameters.
19:09	Now, on face value, these look like you'd have no idea where to get them.
19:13	Fuel density at 20°C.
19:16	Now, why do we need this information? Well, part of the VE fuel model is basically calculating the mass of fuel that is going to be delivered for a given pulse width to the injector.
19:27	And the mass of fuel is going to depend on the fuel density which also obviously depends on the fuel temperature.
19:31	So, this takes into account the fuel density here at 20°C.
19:36	And then we've also got the fuel density temperature coefficient.
19:40	Now, again where are you going to get these numbers from? Well, you don't have to come up with them by yourself.
19:44	Again if we press F1, we're going to get a table that gives us some parameters to put in there.
19:50	This becomes more relevant as well if we are running a fuel temperature sensor because obviously, it can then track the change in fuel temperature and hence fuel density.
20:00	Next moving down we have our stoichire fuel ratio and this is going to depend on the fuel we're running.
20:06	In our case pump fuel, we're going to leave this at 14.7 to one.
20:11	Coming down here we've got another parameter which we're not really going to be able to adjust correctly right now.
20:17	This is our fuel charge cooling coefficient.
20:21	Essentially this is trying to define the cooling effect of the fuel as it goes through a phase change from liquid to vapour.
20:29	And if we've got this incorrect, what's going to happen is as we ask for a change in our lambda target, we'll find that the ECU won't actually be able to track that change perfectly.
20:40	So, once we're up and running we'll see how we can deal with our charge cooling coefficient.
20:45	We've got our minimum effective pulse width for our injector.
20:48	This becomes more relevant with large oversize aftermarket injectors.
20:54	We don't have data for these injectors, so I'm going to leave that set to zero milliseconds so it's essentially going to have no effect.
21:02	However, if you're buying aftermarket injectors, you will have this parameter, so it becomes easy to plug and play into here.
21:09	We've got some parameters around asynchronous injection and our wall wetting compensation.
21:13	Basically, these are parameters around our transient fueling.
21:16	I'm not going to change these here and we will not cover these within this particular worked example just to keep everything as simple as we can.
21:24	These will be covered in our members webinars if you want more information.
21:30	We've also got the ability to reallocate an injector drive, we're not going to need to do that here.
21:37	And then we have an injector duty cycle fault value which I'm going to leave at 100% here.
21:42	So, that covers the first setup for our fuel main.
21:47	We'll press escape and we'll come back to our menu structure.
21:51	We're going to come down now to our injector setup.
21:53	And we'll click on injector setup and we start again at the top here with our dead time table.
21:59	Do we want a two dimensional table or do we need a three dimensional table? Double click on that, we can choose either option.
22:05	So, when would we choose one over the other? Well, if we are running a manifold pressure referenced fuel pressure regulator, that differential pressure across the injector as I just mentioned should be relatively consistent.
22:18	Basically, the fuel pressure comes up and down with our manifold pressure.
22:21	So, in this case we only need a two dimensional table because the only parameter that our dead time will be affected by now is our battery voltage.
22:30	If we're running a fixed fuel pressure and it's not responding to manifold pressure changes, then we would want to also bring in our differential fuel pressure as a consideration for the load axis of the dead time table.
22:44	And this allows us to control the dead time value not just with relation to our battery voltage, but also with relation to our differential fuel pressure which as I mentioned is going to be changing with manifold pressure.
22:57	Next moving down our table we have a fuel usage fudge factor.
23:01	This is if we are running a fuel used output.
23:05	In this case we're not, so I don't need to have any interest in this parameter.
23:09	Moving down, next one of our really key aspects of our injector characterisation is the injector flow at the rated pressure.
23:16	In other words, what is our injector size? Pretty well known that the injectors for this range of Evos was a 560cc injector and that was at the rated pressure of 300 kPa or 43.5 psi.
23:30	Next we come down to our injector dead time table.
23:34	And this becomes problematic when we are dealing with older factory injectors that sort of came out at a time where the level of precision of characterising injectors wasn't where it is now.
23:46	So, it's difficult if not impossible to get accurate data for these injectors.
23:51	However, if you're running aftermarket injectors then absolutely this should be available in a drop in format from your injector manufacturer.
23:59	In our case what we've done here is essentially created a hybrid based on some factory injector dead time data from Evo reflashing software like ECU flash.
24:10	One aspect here to look at is what the dead time is around about 14 volts.
24:16	With older injectors here, I would generally see this number being somewhere around about .85 to maybe as high as 1.0 ms.
24:26	In this case .748 or let's call it .75 ms, these are the numbers from a stock calibration and we've tested this and it does seem to be pretty well in the ballpark.
24:39	Now, I just want to make a bit of a point here about the importance of the dead time table.
24:44	A lot of people think that this data is absolutely mission critical and if we don't have it pinpoint accurate to a third decimal place, then the engine's never going to be able to be tuned.
24:53	The reality is nothing could be further from the truth and at the start of my career, the early link issues we were dealing with then did not even take dead time into consideration.
25:04	Having said that, of course if we've got the data, I'm going to enter the correct data, we want to be as accurate as we can with this.
25:12	But if we're out by .05 of a ms, even .1 of a ms, the engine is still going to run.
25:19	Yes, we're going to have some errors potentially baked into our VE table and some of our compensations might be microscopically off, but the engine will still function.
25:29	So, in this case, this data is as good as we can get, that is where I'm going to leave it.
25:34	And we can come back across to our injector setup.
25:38	The last part, and this goes hand in hand with our injector dead time is our short pulse width adder.
25:44	And again, just like our dead time, this is just not data that we are going to be able to reliably get for factory injectors of the generation of these.
25:54	So, what do we do? If we've got no short pulse width adder data, we're just going to leave this table blank.
25:59	Again with aftermarket injectors, you will be able to get accurate data here.
26:03	Plug and play and you're away.
26:06	Given we don't have data for this and we've set this table to zero, what is it going to impact? It's going to potentially impact the accuracy of our fuelling and our VE table thereby, particularly down in the idle region or very low pulse width region.
26:22	And essentially if you don't have this data, we're going to basically fudge it in the VE table by adjusting the VE table to get the air fuel ratio that we want.
26:31	And maybe in that idle area if this data is out, we may see a slightly unusual shape or trend to our VE table.
26:39	But again, is it perfect? No.
26:41	Can we make the engine run? Yes, absolutely we can.
26:45	Alright, let's head back to our main menu here.
26:48	And what we want to do is also come to our injector test and as I mentioned here, at the start of this module we want to make sure that all of the injectors are wired up correctly.
26:56	And we can run an injector test here.
26:59	And we can run each of the injectors, this is going to pulse them 10 Hz, 2 ms.
27:04	We also have an advanced injector test for injector one if you want to get really granular with things, but for our purposes we don't need to.
27:13	What we want to do here is run a test on each of these injectors, I'll just start this one here.
27:18	And I can actually even from the cabinet here, they're operating, I'll just turn it off.
27:22	So, we want to go through each of our injectors in turn and make sure that the correct injector on the engine is the one that's actually pulsing and of course make sure that all of them are pulsing as you'd expect.
27:34	Now, with this as well, just a word of warning, we don't want to run this test while we have fuel pressure in the fuel rail because that will start to obviously pulse fuel into the intake port.
27:48	At this point I haven't actually run the fuel pump, so that's not a concern.
27:52	But it's always a good idea while you're running this test to remove the fuel pump relay, so that the fuel pump can't function and just make sure that everything is working without the risk of injecting fuel into your engine.
28:05	So, once you've gone through all four injectors, our injector and basically our fuel setup is configured here.
28:11	And now we're going to go through and do exactly the same with our ignition system.
28:15	Let's start by going back to our main menu.
28:18	We can close down our fuel here for the moment and we'll come down to ignition and we'll come down to ignition main and start there.
28:26	Now, our ignition mode here, wasted spark, if we double click on here, we've got a few options, distributor and twin distributor, waste spark or direct spark.
28:34	My preference would always be direct spark where we have a coil for each cylinder, but the stock system for the Evo 9 is a waste spark system.
28:43	It's perfectly capable of the power levels that we're looking at, so no real need to go and reinvent the wheel here.
28:50	Of course, at a later point we could upgrade to direct spark ignition and we've got enough injector ignition drives on the ECU to run that easily.
29:01	Next we come to our spark edge and we have the option of falling or rising here.
29:07	And this is essentially the way the coil is driven.
29:12	This is actually really really important because if we get this wrong, we're going to very quickly destroy our coils.
29:19	In most instances, almost all instances, the correct option here is going to be falling but there are a few niche examples such as Honda and some MSD ignition systems where this needs to be rising.
29:33	If you're unsure, you definitely want to get in touch with your coil manufacturer before you get started here or at least ask for some support help for your particular vehicle because it's a costly thing to come back from.
29:47	As an example of protecting our ignition system, it's always a good idea if you're unsure, we're starting with an unknown map to begin with your ignition coils unplugged.
29:56	It just eliminates the risk of them being damaged while you're going through this setup process.
30:02	However, in our case, falling is the correct option, so we'll leave that.
30:06	We've got our ignition delay and we'll talk a little bit more about this once we've got the engine up and running, but essentially if we've got a timing light on the engine, this is a delay that can be built in, so that as we go from idle to let's say 6000-7000 RPM, there's no drift in our ignition timing, keeps it rock solid.
30:25	We can adjust that to achieve that aim.
30:27	We've got our minimum spark duration of one millisecond and in this case no need to adjust that, we've also got our maximum advance, exactly what it says on the label there, this is the maximum advance that the ECU will allow irrespective of the numbers you put in the tables and any corrections being applied, so good idea to make sure that that is set to something sensible.
30:48	And again just with our injection we can have ignition drive relocation which we don't require.
30:55	OK, so that's the first of our ignition setup done.
30:58	We also have our ignition test.
31:00	So, again just like our injector test, we want to test each of our ignition coils and make sure that A, they're functioning and B, that they are wired to the correct cylinder.
31:11	So, we can choose each of those.
31:12	What we should hear is a light buzzing noise come from the coil or a clicking noise come from the coil.
31:19	You won't hear that typically from the cabin, you actually need to be out there in the engine bay listening.
31:26	And if you're unsure if it is the correct coil, a good way of testing that is just to unplug the coil that it should be and make sure that that clicking stops.
31:35	So, at this point we should have both our injection system and our ignition system correctly configured.
31:41	Last in our ignition system we're going to come through and have a look at our dwell control table.
31:46	And this is really important to both spark energy and the reliability of our coils.
31:51	The table defines the amount of time that the power will be provided to the coil in order to fully charge it to achieve maximum spark energy.
32:00	Now, if we've got the numbers in this table too low, we're not going to achieve sufficient spark energy and we may find that at high load, high RPM we ended up suffering from ignition misfires.
32:10	If the numbers are too great, we're going to end up potentially damaging the coil by overheating it and burning it out.
32:15	Now, this table by default here is set up as a three dimensional table, we've got battery voltage on the y axis and engine RPM on the horizontal axis.
32:24	In my opinion, possibly unnecessary, I normally see these tables as a two dimensional table based purely on battery voltage, but I haven't made up these numbers, I've actually imported this from the Evo 9 base map that Link provides, so they've kind of done the heavy lifting here, I don't have to worry about it.
32:42	However, what we normally find here is that when the engine is running with the alternator charging, we should be seeing our battery voltage pretty consistently around 14 volts.
32:51	So, we should be running essentially through this row of the table.
32:56	And it is reasonably normal, it is coil dependent, but it's reasonably normal to see the typical charge numbers in the range of about 3.5 to 4.5 milliseconds which is obviously exactly what we've got.
33:07	Now, again you do want to make sure that these numbers are correct.
33:10	So, if you are in any doubt, contact your ECU supplier or manufacturer, they will have default values for most common coils.
33:20	You do not have to guess here and again if you get it wrong, you risk damaging the coil.
33:25	Alright, we've set up our fuel and our ignition systems, we've done our output tests and we know that everything is functioning as expected, so we can move on.
33:34	We're going to move a little bit out of order now, we're going to have a look at some of our inputs and I'll actually start here with our analogue inputs, so we can open that up.
33:44	The process or workflow here for setting up our inputs and outputs is a little bit different from the earlier LINQ ECUs.
33:51	Now, rather than looking at a list of auxiliary inputs, or analogue inputs I should say, or auxiliary outputs, we can see that we have these predefined parameters that LINQ have provided us.
34:04	So, what we want to do is choose the one that's relevant to the function we're setting up.
34:08	So, let's start here with our engine coolant temperature.
34:11	So, we choose this and then the workflow is that we're going to start by defining what analogue temperature input that particular input is wired to.
34:21	So, analogue temp one for our engine coolant temp sensor.
34:24	We want to also have our error low and error high voltages.
34:29	These are the default values and generally there shouldn't be too much need to change these, basically, just brings up a fault if the sensor or the connection is open circuit or it's straight to five volts.
34:43	We can also choose our pull up resistor or pull up resistor inside of the ECU here.
34:49	By default one kilo ohm is normal.
34:51	If we double click on this, we can choose to turn this off, we'd only be doing that if we were basically piggybacking an existing ECU.
35:00	Or you can select 10 kilo ohm, but again for almost all instances one kilo ohm is going to be fine there.
35:07	Then we have our error value, so that's set to 100°C.
35:11	Only tip I'd give here is to make sure that this is something that's going to be high enough to bring on the coolant fans, so that we don't risk overheating.
35:20	So, 100°C is going to cut it for us there quite happily.
35:23	And then we've got our calibration, so we've selected here standard Bosch NTC.
35:28	But if we double click here we can see there is quite an extensive list of OE as well as generic sensors or of course you can make your own.
35:38	The standard Bosch NTC sensor is probably far and away still the most common one.
35:44	So, that's what we've got in our Mitsubishi Evo 9.
35:48	And once we've got a sensor like this configured, we can actually have a look and see what our coolant temperature is reading and obviously at the moment, 46.1°C.
35:58	Now, if we are setting up a car from scratch and it hasn't been started, we obviously should see our engine coolant temperature and our intake air temperature once configured, basically matching each other, possibly within about a degree and a half and of course those should also match our ambient temperature.
36:14	And that's a good sanity check.
36:16	Unfortunately, I can't do that because the engine has been running.
36:20	OK, so let's press our escape key again and what we'll do is come down to our intake air temp sensor, seeing as I've also just mentioned that, and the reason we're going to do that is not so much going through the case of setting this up because it is rinse and repeat, it's just talking a little bit about this sensor.
36:38	So, for a start, the process as I mentioned, rinse and repeat, we start with our temp sensor source which is now analogue temperature 2, the rest is exactly what you've just seen.
36:48	Why I wanted to mention this though is that the Evo 9 intake air temp sensor is fitted to the intake manifold.
36:55	And it's a cast aluminium intake manifold and it is notorious for heat soak.
37:00	So, particularly at low airflow values, you're going to possibly see this unrealistically sitting high, particularly when the vehicle is heat soaked, it's been sitting there with the bonnet or the hood closed for a period of time after it's been run, this is going to give you a false high reading because of basically the thermal mass of that aluminium intake manifold transferring the heat into the body of the sensor.
37:25	So, I generally prefer where possible to actually fit an aftermarket sensor into the intercooler plumbing pre throttle body.
37:32	There is no perfect solution to this, but I find that that becomes a little bit less prone to heat soak.
37:38	So, that's just an Evo 9 specific tip there.
37:41	We'll press escape again and now what we're going to do is have a quick look at our manifold absolute pressure sensor.
37:47	So, we'll click on that, again process is the same, this time it's an analogue voltage input, not an analogue temperature input.
37:54	The difference with these is that the analogue voltage input, we're directly inputting a zero to five volt input.
38:01	So, an analogue voltage sensor requires a zero volt sensor ground, a five volt reference and then the third wire which is the output that goes back into our ECU as our analogue voltage input.
38:13	The analogue temp on the other hand, these are the ones that have the internal pull up which we've just discussed.
38:19	So, these are wired to a two wire negative temperature coefficient thermistor or temperature sensor.
38:25	So, that's a subtle difference between the two, but it is important.
38:30	So, everything else really here is exactly the same.
38:32	We have an error value here that we need to consider because this becomes a bit of a limp home consideration if the sensor becomes faulty.
38:41	There's no perfect solution here but 100 kPa should allow us to awkwardly limp the car somewhere off the road at least until we can effect a repair.
38:50	Calibration, Evo 9, obviously because we're running the stock sensor, a bunch of preconfigured options here or you can make up your own as required.
38:59	We've also got filtering to talk about here and we can see we've got low, medium or high.
39:04	With any input that allows filtering, I always want to run the minimal possible.
39:08	So, we'll always start with low and then if required we can go ahead and add a little bit of filtering if there's noise on that input.
39:17	Shouldn't be though and if we can get away with it, low is the way we wanna go.
39:21	Then we have our map sensor calibration.
39:24	So, we can double click on this and this will ask if we want to perform a map sensor calibration, this calibrates the sensor to the barometric air pressure sensor that's on board.
39:34	So, we'll click yes and it says that it's been completed successfully.
39:38	So, if our calibration for the sensor is incorrect, it will fail this calibration, so it's a good sanity check.
39:44	We can also find that particular option from the ECU controls menu, so we'll click on that and we can see down here we've got our map sensor calibration.
39:54	Just done it, so I won't do it again.
39:56	Alright, we've got those inputs set up, we'll just go through one more here.
40:00	So, we'll press escape again and what we wanna do is set up our throttle position sensor, so we're gonna click on that.
40:07	Now, again we choose our analog voltage input, this time analog voltage input 2, we've got our same error low and error high.
40:15	Now, we can see our closed voltage and our open voltage.
40:20	Now, what we can see is that with the numbers we've got at the moment, we've got the throttle closed yet we're sitting at about 9.3%.
40:27	If I go to wide open throttle, we're 98.1% so we're not quite right there.
40:32	Fortunately, there is a calibration option for this and we can get to that right here through the little spanner icon or again if we come to our ECU controls, we can click on TPS setup.
40:44	Very easy, it's gonna ask us to go to full throttle.
40:47	Now, we wanna be quite positive with this, make sure that we are quite aggressive and are properly holding the throttle on the floor, we'll click OK and then back off the throttle to close, click OK and our job is done.
40:58	And now if we look at our TPS, we're sitting with our throttle closed, 0%, 100%, it's as easy as that.
41:07	So, that's some of our main inputs set up.
41:10	I'm not gonna go through every potential input that we're going to have there, but this is essentially the process we go through, rinse and repeat for every additional input.
41:20	Let's now have a look at some of our outputs.
41:23	So, we'll press escape here and we'll close down our analogue inputs and we'll open up our auxiliary outputs.
41:30	So, we've got a few outputs here that we've got configured.
41:34	I'll just go through, again, once you've understood basically one output, they're all much the same, so let's just start by looking at our engine fan.
41:43	So, we'll click on engine fan.
41:45	And the setup here is actually a little bit more complicated because we have multiple fans, so we can see that we've got engine one fan output is wired up to ignition drive six.
41:57	What we can do here as well is do an output test.
42:01	Just with everything we set up we wanna do an output test.
42:04	And we can turn this on and what we should hear is our fan running.
42:09	I'm not sure if that's coming over the mic, but I can audibly hear the fan running in the engine bay.
42:14	We'll turn that off.
42:16	So, we want to have a look at our setup here.
42:19	So, in this case the active state for the output is in the high state and fan one will turn on at 90 degrees C and it will have a two degree hysteresis meaning that once it's turned on, the temperature needs to drop two degrees before it'll turn off.
42:33	In this case the fan will also function with the AC or air conditioning.
42:38	Then we've got our fan two output which is on ignition seven.
42:41	This comes on at 94 degrees.
42:43	Ignition eight is our third fan which I don't actually believe is functional here but essentially the same process there to test our outputs.
42:53	Making sure that the temperature trigger points that we've chosen are also sensible for our application.
43:00	Alright, let's have a look at another one that we're going to need to deal with here which is our fuel pump control.
43:05	So, we'll click on that.
43:07	Now, in this case there is a two speed control relay.
43:10	This is being controlled via auxiliary two.
43:13	We can again run a test here.
43:15	So, we can click on, and again I hear the relay physically click on.
43:20	So, we'll turn that off, I know that's functioning.
43:21	If we've got fuel pressure being displayed we would see that.
43:25	And we've got our active state, our fuel pump speed relay control is actually turned to none here.
43:32	And we've got our prime time, so when we key on, the ECU will prime the pump for three seconds.
43:39	And then if we're running a crossover here, where the pump will change from low speed to high speed, generally I'd be running this probably up around about 3500-4000 RPM and maybe about 25-30% fuel flow.
43:53	So, we're actually running this as a one speed control at the moment.
43:56	So, it's basically all or nothing.
43:59	OK, let's have a look at one of the differences here with the G5 which is the ADIO pins which we've already briefly discussed.
44:07	So, let's have a look at something that is set up on ADIO.
44:11	We can find these here, but they aren't set up directly through this menu.
44:17	So, we can see that I've got the tacho, the check engine light, the intercooler sprayer and the AC clutch all set up on ADIO pins.
44:26	So, how do we actually set these up? Well, these are still set up through our auxiliary outputs.
44:31	So, for example if we want to have a look at our check engine light, we can click on that and we'll click on check engine light and here simply the source that we've selected now is ADIO2.
44:44	So, that defines it.
44:46	We can test this of course and if I click this on, the check engine light will come up on the dash and we'll just turn that back off again.
44:55	We've got the active state, so it will be active when it's low or basically connected to zero volts.
45:02	It will basically now also define how the check engine light works.
45:05	So, it's on when there are fault codes and there is the ability to control the flash mode and we can have key on with no faults as well.
45:14	So, basically that's how you set up anything that's going to be an output.
45:18	It's not through the pins itself, it's not through that ADIO menu, it is actually going to be through the auxiliary outputs and we just define where those are going to be, what source those are coming from, or going to I should say.
45:31	Alright, let's have a look at one last output here and that's going to be our boost control solenoid.
45:36	So, if we press escape, this time we can see that we don't actually have boost solenoid listed in our outputs here under auxiliary outputs.
45:45	A couple of ways we can find this, we could use our little search box up the top here and type in boost.
45:50	Always a good thing to keep in mind if you're a little bit lost and you don't quite know where to find something as I've already discussed.
45:56	Or we can come down here and everything we're going to need here is in our boost control menu.
46:01	So, we'll click on that and expand it out and what we want to do is click on boost setup.
46:08	So, this actually gives a little bit more than what we bargained for, there's a little bit more control here.
46:14	But we've got our actual output here which is our PWM or pulse width modulated output and we can see that that is set up to auxiliary output We can obviously choose what output we want from our dropdown menu.
46:28	We can test this, but I'll come to that in a second.
46:32	We also have our auxiliary for active state.
46:35	So, this is active low, in other words when it switches to ground, we've got 12 volts wired to the other side of the boost control solenoid and a really important one here is our pulse width modulated frequency.
46:46	Now, first up, when we're doing a test here, 30 hertz is probably going to give us a little bit of a buzzing sound, but it's not necessarily immediately obvious.
46:54	For testing, I find if we drop that down to 5 hertz or somewhere thereabouts, now if we come to our auxiliary test and we click on and we want PWM, we should be able to hear it and I just faintly can.
47:09	Obviously, with most of these we're gonna jump out into the engine bay and physically listen and make sure that yes it is actually functioning.
47:15	We'll turn that off.
47:16	OK, so now we know that it is actually functioning, but what we want to do is come back to our pulse width modulated frequency and choose a suitable frequency.
47:25	Often this will require a little bit of testing and fiddling once we're actually up and running and we're setting our boost control up.
47:32	Generally, though I find that most three port solenoids will want to be set at around 20 to 30 hertz, haven't found really anything that wants to be outside of that range and we're going to set that back to 30.
47:44	If you haven't got this right, you're probably going to have inconsistencies in your boost control and it's going to be difficult to get the boost to stay nice and stable.
47:54	So, in that range should be somewhere in the ballpark.
47:58	OK, at this point we've got all of our inputs and our outputs set up, we know that they are reading sensible values that make sense, we're confident that all of our outputs are also configured correctly and wired correctly and they're all functioning properly as well.
48:13	So, we're ready to move on to the next step of our process.