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Various Wiring questions

EFI Wiring Fundamentals

Discussion and questions related to the course EFI Wiring Fundamentals


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i am sure some of these will seem basic question but hopefully some one else would like to know too.

Splices:

1: whats the difference between a raychem mini seal splice eg M609-05

and

12-10 Parallel splice?

both are on https://www.milspecwiring.com/12-10AWG-PARALLEL-SPLICE_p_685.html i know raychem is a brand but is there a physical difference other than wire gauge and brand? is M22520/37-01 the correct crimper for both?

2: is Rennsteig PEW-9 an acceptable equivalent to M22520/37-01 crimp tool?

3: i need to run a fast acting diode on the load side of an SSR to stop flyback voltages from detroying the SSR, i am currently running a 2 pin DTP connector, i would like to splice the wires (12awg) just after the dtp connector and splice some 16ga wires in parallel to the 12ga that continue on the the water pump. then crimp a DT connector to this with the mating end of the connector having a potted diode, what is the best practice to add "ballast wires" to the diode side of the connector so the crimp hold the diode securely?

4: can a metri pack crimper such as: http://www.prowireusa.com/p-1987-terminal-crimper-metri-pack-weather-pack.aspx be used as a budget alternative to the TE crimper? (looking to produce looms for myself and maybe friends cars but nothing else).

5: has anyone found a seller of multi position switches that can have resister added, potted and used as a position switch for EFI use? currently used a 12 position haltech unit, but how ever dont need 12 positions and would like a simpler set up (less option = less confusion while on track).

Thanks guys, made a basic relay/fuse panel earlier this year. its working in the car but isnt as neat or professional as i like so i am looking to revisit it later this year/early next year and applying higher level tools/techniques. (ie crimp splices vs solder splices, Bussmann fuse/relay PDM vs separate relays and fuses.etc).

1: The 'M 609-05' Raychem product is the crimp barrel section from their immersion resistant splice series, which includes dual wall shrink seal. The 12-10 looks like a generic parallel closed barrel splice. I'd say they're pretty interchangeable. Depending on where in the harness the splice is going to be used, I'd go for the generic ones, as their shorter length is going to give you more options.

2: It looks like 'PEW-9' refers to the tool frame from Rennsteig, and its available with many different crimp dies. the M22520/37-01 has fixed dies as far as I know, so they're pretty different tools. the M22520/37-01 has much more mechanical advantage, so if you're doing a lot of closed barrel splices, would be a good option.

3: What SSR are you using? Many of them have fly-back diodes built in already. What diode are you planning on using? I'm not 100% sure what you're asking here, but is it to do with packing out the closed barrel crimp section of the DT terminal so it crimps tightly to the diode leg? If that's the case, you might be better off over sizing your diode specifically to get one with a thicker leg, that wouldn't need any packing. That being said, I wouldn't have any problems with packing out the terminal with some 22awg wire to ensure a good tight crimp. If you're going to be potting it afterwards it should be nice and reliable. Have you thought about integrating the diode into the harness, eliminating the need for the separate wire and dt connector?

4: Yes, absolutely. Have a look at this toolkit: http://www.toolaid.com/node/1163 along with this tool: http://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/TOOCRIGP and that should cover you for most applications, at a pretty decent price.

5: I've struck this too! The rotary switches I've used before only came in 10 position for the form factor I needed, way too many positions usually! There are ones out there that come with limit stops you can add to limit their range of movement, but I haven't delved into sourcing, say, a 4 position rotary switch in a nice small form factor. Would love to see some options if anyone else has though! :-).

Hope that helps.

RE: Point number 5, MoTeC DST-4 is a nice compact 4 position rotary switch that work well and are easy to tuck away as they are quite small. Output a 1-4v in positions 1-4 respectively.

That's a hot tip, thanks Josh!

Zac,

with regards to:

3: What SSR are you using? Many of them have fly-back diodes built in already. What diode are you planning on using? I'm not 100% sure what you're asking here, but is it to do with packing out the closed barrel crimp section of the DT terminal so it crimps tightly to the diode leg? If that's the case, you might be better off over sizing your diode specifically to get one with a thicker leg, that wouldn't need any packing. That being said, I wouldn't have any problems with packing out the terminal with some 22awg wire to ensure a good tight crimp. If you're going to be potting it afterwards it should be nice and reliable. Have you thought about integrating the diode into the harness, eliminating the need for the separate wire and dt connector?

what voltage and amperage would the diode need to be? assuming its a Schottky diode?

the SSR in question is a Kudon relay as sold by Jaycar in Australia:

https://www.jaycar.com.au/solid-state-relay-4-32vdc-input-30vdc-100a-switching/p/SY4086

when you say integrate into harness how can this be done reliably? when using pull up resistors for example, in the past it is hard to strain relieve the resistor enough to stop the legs breaking from fatigue. i photo may help me under stand a reliable method if possible.

I don't have any photos on hand unfortunately, but previously I've laid the two wires i question next to each other (say, sensor signal and +5V), and removed a section of insulation from each wire, staggered from one another by around 20mm. I didn't actually cut the wires, just removed the insulation to expose the copper. I then crimped the resistor legs to the wires using very small open barrel crimps. Then the whole thing was sheathed in Raychem SCL and recovered up nice and tight to seal it all, and make it rigid. This section was also behind a connector, and was then enclosed by the connector boot.

So there is quite a bit that goes into it, upon reflection, your connector solution does have a lot of logic behind it. I've seen OEM's do it that way before also.

where is a good source for very small open barrel crimps?

sorry for the basic question

Nah man, ask away, its good info to get out there! I get mine from element14, which is an online electronics supplier Digikey or Mouser probably have similar options. You're looking for brass open barrel crimps, somewhere in the 1000-1500 CMA size range is a good small size for crimping to a single 22 awg wire.

thanks Zac,

what about these:

http://au.element14.com/amp-te-connectivity/62304-2/terminal-open-barrel-splice-15awg/dp/2781612?ost=brass+open+barrel&wire-size-awg-min=22awg&ddkey=http%3Aen-AU%2FElement14_Australia%2Fw%2Fsearch

they are AMP/TE AMPLIVAR splices.

also i assume i can use just about any open barrel crimper?

lastly what are the pro's and con's of these versus M 609-05? i under stand they are different crimping methods but why would one use one over the other? is it personal choice about what crimpers you own?

Yes, those would be a good option. You need a reasonably rigid crimping tool, as the open barrel splices are a little tougher to crimp than terminals, usually. I find this one: https://www.milspecwiring.com/CRIMPER-UNIVERSAL-OPEN-BARREL_p_403.html to be great and is my go-to.

for open barrel vs closed barrel, I think it really does come down to what you're tooled up for, and personal preference. I've had the same performance out of both options. If there was one thing that would swing me in either direction it would be that I think I can usually get a less bulky crimp using open barrel splices.