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Advancing Timing

Practical Standalone Tuning

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Discussion and questions related to the course Practical Standalone Tuning

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Hi Raymond,

Thanks for the tip regarding power torque,

I do have virtual dyno and works fairly well, my power curve is nice no dips,

I'm try to finish tuning my turbo Honda, I have fully tuned the fuel map, and makes some good power. But my timing tables are a bit conservative to say the least, Thus the reason I bought the Plex Knock monitor, to find the correct timing before it knocks, I know this is best done in a real dyno but i have no access to one, the closest is around 5 or 6 hrs away from me,

I'm doing power runs from 2,000rpm to 9,000rpm my question is should i increase a degree or two from 2,000 rpm up to 9k? or should i start advancing timing on the high cam Table only which switches to at 5000 RPM?

Should I advance timing a degree on all hi cam ignition table or only at the cells that are traced on the datalog? This is the part that is not so clear for me,

from which cell/s to start advancing timing to see increase in power

Thanks in advance

if you have good virtual dyno software then try advancing the timing in all the cells you normally hit on the pull, check logs for increase in power, in areas that have no increase then take the advance back out and leave it there, in areas where you get knock then take timing back out and recheck to confim no knock.

once thats done interpolate and smooth the map to the areas you can get reliable data with.

Hi Scott,

Thanks for the advice, that would help

So I'm still learning however this is what I've gathered. Since you can't do a test with out the dyno, you're always going to be conservative with ignition from a road tune with virtual dyno software.

What I would personally do, is make a power run in what ever gear you can get away with on the road, 3rd or 4th, and log it. Check the log for when you went to full throttle and it should show you when you click on it (the log graph) what rpm and manifold pressure the parameters are at. Then I would add 1 degree across the board of the power run in the areas it goes through. Do another run and check results, then you can do was Scott said. If nothing increased and there was no knock bring that back down, where there were areas of increased power with no knocking present, you can try increasing another 1 degree. Where there was knocking present bring it back down to what it was etc as Scott stated. Then do another run and keep going from there.

To everyone else that reads, this, if I am wrong in my thinking please let me know. I want to get this knowledge down pat so I can have a good knowledge base.

I'm not personally a huge fan of VD software but I know others who have had good results so that leaves me with suggesting that you give it a go and see how consistent the results are. In particular I'd recommend performing 4-5 runs with no changes and make sure that you're getting repeatability before you rely on the data. Obviously it's going to be essential to use the same piece of road every time to do this. Assuming you can get good repeatability then I'd suggest treating the tuning process the same as full throttle ramp runs on a real dyno.

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