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water mwethanal injection

Practical Standalone Tuning

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is there a way to give the adaptronic a heads up that water meth is coming on at 2 lbs boost you see the activating light cum non and it falls on its face . I Have a procharged RX8 And I used to run the stock 2red and 4 yellow injectors with snow water meth inj. and a Power Mod Piggy back computer. I had a tune that was 10 to 11 to 1 afr under full throttle and above 5 lbs boost and 14.4 under vacuum. I blew 4 engines in 40,000 km but I was getting a smooth tune that would break the back end loose speed shifting into 4th at 150kmh per hr. The 5th engine I took it to a dyno shop to get a adaptronic ECU and pro tune they said that i needed more injector so he took away 2 400ds and put in 2 1000ds so 1200cc more injector. The water meth had been hooked up wrong and it had no power and I told the tec that it needed to be hooked up he said he would see if he had the time I insisted that it had to be hooked up but I should have said that pump gas will not support 10 lbs boost in a Rennisis as he blew it up at 265 hp at 8.4 lbs boost 11.4 to 1 with out the wat inj on. The 6th motor has low compression and they won't even try any thing until it is fully broken in. So I am putting on kms and taking the HPA stand alone course trying to figure out how to stop the stumble. got any suggestions?

Did you get the video playback issue sorted?

Exactly how have you, and the "tuner", "blown" them up, it may point to some of the issues to address?

I'm not that familiar with the Wankel, but as the RX8 has a much higher compression than the earlier 13B variants, perhaps a swap of rotors may be possible, preferably the RX7 turbo' which has much lower compression?

What other mod's have you done to support the fuel and cooling demands of the higher output? Fitting larger injectors may not, on their own, make much difference if it was a fuel supply to the injector limit that was the problem? With the design of the engine, the oil plays a critical part in the cooling of the engines as it's splashed around inside the rotors picking up heat and cooling them - this may even lead to pinched seals.

TBH, I'd be looking at building a 13B, or even 20B, with some port work, into the car which should really get it moving and be reliable with 10PSI of boost.

Did they use a proper, wankel, compression tester? Depending on what "low compression" means you may need to pull it back down, as there's definitely a limit to what 'breaking in' can do for the sealing.

What is the "stumble" issue - you didn't mention it before and without more information the rotary chaps can't really pass comment.

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