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Discussion and questions related to the course Practical Motorsport Wiring - Club Level
I'm about to embark on a journey to relocate the D/S fusebox on my 180sx and I'm looking at options for reducing/ extending my harness where needed.
I know that HP are strong endorses of barrel crimps and I have the tools to use them though most of the automotive electrical places in QLD Aust. stock the shrink solder option, finding the barrel crimps in the required sizes has been surprisingly difficult, especially locally.
The solder seal option has a limited amount of solder so that it doesn't run too far up the wire, plus it creates a waterproof seal around the join. I dont see there being too much movement under the fusebox so I don't see any issues with the solder join being rigid.
Could I get some advise on he shortcomings of these and possibly, if the solder option would be a good comparison for what seems to be a far more finicky crimp setup?
I found this and it mentioned the solder option was actually preferred...
Any additional thoughts would be appreciated though.
Element 14 which are Sydney based stock the open barrel splices.
I'm sure you have heard the details as to why solder should be avoided. Even if you believe the wires themselves won't have any movement it is simply the harmonics thru the car that will cause the solder issues later. Principals of achieving a cold weld with copper is what makes the crimp method more desirable.
Just my thoughts.
extract from this thread:
"Open Barrel Splices
1500 CMA and less of combined wire area: TE 62759-1
1500 to 5000 CMA of combined wire area: TE 63130-2
5000 to 10000 CMA of combined wire area: TE 62357-1
Best price and easiest company I have found to deal with for purchasing these is www.element14.com. Putting those part number into the search bar will get you to the right pages. Element14 has different pages depending on where in the world you are, in the US for example its called Newark, so it will be best to search for those part numbers from your location"
i have found these very cost effective and far easier than dealing with solder sleeves, some SCL and proper crimpers (Sargent 3187 / GM12085271 from memory) and you will never use a solder sleeve again! check RS electronics and mouser as well as element 14. all of them ship quickly and affordably.
I did manage to locate element14 and mouser on my travels though as can be expected, they have some pretty large quantity requirements when it comes to buying from them.
element usually wants you to buy 100 or more while mouser sometimes requests you buy 1000's at a time.
Considering I'm only relocating a fusebox and cutting/ extending about 60 wires, its gets a bit expensive.
RAPID cables here in QLD looked good but they only have the links and I don't have the correct crimping tool.
I'm beginning to know how wiring up things "properly" can get expensive.
I'll see what I can do with element, thanks guys.
Looking at the product numbers above, they seem to be right on the money and there isn't such a high quantity requirement.
I think the biggest issue is despite doing wiring for years, I'm finally trying to learn the right ways (or HPA's way :P) of doing things. These kinds of websites where everything is like a mass produced warehouse does not constitute a good learning experience.
Plus...W, CMA, mm2...the standards for this shit is whack!...and the fact that some places split out connectors like deutsch connectors and their seals just makes it that much more confusing.
I'll keep on trudging along and see where I end up. Thanks again for those part numbers.
I thought the same with the qty that I would need to purchase initially however I have found that I will them all the time (I am doing a full rewire job tho)
I deal with an assortment of companies for various things. With the deutsch stuff I deal with MSEL who list plugs as mating pairs with all pins etc as a kit. Prowire usa also do this.
But unfortunately it does add up quickly. Goodluck
Yeah I think thats the issue, there isnt any one place that has everything.
RAPID has almost everything apart from the barrel crimps...I guess as long as I spend over a certain amount, at least there is free shipping.
The Deustche stuff is definitely a PITA, they sell every seal and pin separate, bloody ridiculous.
I just wish there was a place that had things layed out so that you could learn while looking, instead of the potential of making massive mistake. MSEL looks like a great layout, thanks for that. Shipping though is the killer there and why I would prefer to try and find someone on this side of the ocean.
The electrical standards in Aust are ridiculous enough without adding to the confusion. I mean, even the MSEL website has 12AWG listed as 4mm2 which is incorrect...just crazy how bad its all advertised.
The reason soldered joints give issues is that they tend to not be done correctly - too much heat and too much solder wicking up the wire making a brittle section prone to fatigue cracking. If the soldered joint is done properly and isolated from vibration then the joint tends to be fairly reliable.
Open barrel crimping is an altogether more robust option and is often faster and easier to carry out.
Regarding the solder seal connectors; I have a few reservations. Does the solder penetrate the joint correctly? to mitigate this you'd still have to tin the wires so there is a possibility of solder wicking up the cable creating a brittle failure point. To get the solder to melt inside the sheathing we would have to use a lot of heat from a heat gun, something that's not practical when the loom is on a vehicle. They are probably a great get out of jail option to repair a break but there are better options for extending a loom.
In your case I'd suggest looking at extending the loom by fitting a decent multi pin connector and adding the wire in as this would be serviceable and reliable although more costly than open barrel crimps